Prepare your fabric so it is 33cm by 30cm. Draw a line 3cm away from the longer end making a 30cm square. Mark 7.5cm down on the line you just drew and 5cm out. Continue the 5cm down to finish in a rectangle. This is the start to your back neck. You will want to curve the inside of the rectangle closest to the 7.5cm marking. Cut out the shape you have just made.
Fold under to the 3cm line and make sure fabric is square to center back. Fabric sure you have at least 1.5cm above the neckline to clip into to help with shaping.
Pin along shoulder, smoothing out any bumps. Draw in back half of neck line.
So now you have to rotate the fabric because you want the collar to lay flat against the body. Start by taking out the pins at the center back. Remove the pin at the end of the shoulder which should leave you with only the pin at the highest point of the shoulder (HPS.)
Rotate the fabric so the fabric so it is about 3cm from center back and covers past center front. Place pins down center front and smooth your hand along the bust and pin mid armhole.
Draw on neck line. Center front could be a few cm
down to give extra ease or change the neck shape. Mark the shoulder seam as a
notch.
Draw on collar shape.
When you take the fabric off you will have a pointy
shape at the shoulder, you will want to straighten out to give yourself a nice,
rounded collar.
Trace this off on paper, add seam allowance and a
notch at the shoulder.
Lastly you will want to test it one last time on the mannequin. Start at center back and pin along the neck line. This will make sure the fabric fits the neckline you have created.
Flip down collar and make sure the center back is straight. Be sure the fabric lays flat along the neck line and meets at center front.
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