Today I started to create my cousins prom dress. Open back, satin bodice, long sleeves and a tulle skirt, in baby pink of course. This is the process of doing the initial drape of bodice. Don't worry, I will post the rest!
Start with two rectangles 15" x 20", mark the grain line 1 1/2" from salvage, and the cross grain in the center.
Pin grain line along center front, lining up the cross grain with the bust line. Then pin along neckline, shoulder seam, and down the armhole. Snip into but not past neck line to smooth fabric out easier.
Smooth fabric down at side seam, pushing fabric forward to create waist darts. Securely pin side seam. Smooth the excess fabric into a dart. I did mine closer at center because it helps narrow your waist. If you want to break up the body place dart further from center front.
Smooth fabric down at side seam, pushing fabric forward to create waist darts. Securely pin side seam. Smooth the excess fabric into a dart. I did mine closer at center because it helps narrow your waist. If you want to break up the body place dart further from center front. Snip into but not past waist. This will help to smooth out fabric.
A bust dart is also an option!
Trace off neck line, shoulder seam, arm hole, side seam, dart, waist and bust line.
Moving onto the back.
Prepare fabric the same way as front. Pin the grain line on the design line. This will help keep this seam from rippling so much. Smooth out shoulder seam, armhole and side seam. Pin securely, snipping into but not past design lines to help smooth out any lumps or drags in fabric.
Trim off excess fabric. Trace off neck line, shoulder seam, arm hole, side seam, dart, waist and bust line.
Now you must take the fabric pieces off and trace them on to paper to create a pattern. I use a tracing wheel, but an awl will also do well. Trace off every design line, and body line.
Add seam allowance
I tested the pattern on a fabric similar to my final. A polyester crepe back satin. Use pins to help the fabric from slipping.
Pin darts and sew. Sew side seams and shoulder.
Press.
The back is slightly loose, but taking in the side and shoulder help to straighten it out. Pull down at waist if pinning the should was not enough. Later I will show you how to stabilize this detail with bias tape.
This fit turned out to be slightly big. I needed to hake in the side seam and shoulder by an 1/8".
This is the start of the dress. This will need to be fitted on the model and cutout on final fabric. I will show you how to do all of this.
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